A guest post by Chiara Tammaro who is currently studying in Groningen in the north of the Netherlands.

Never visited the north of the Netherlands? You’re not alone. Not many people traveling to the Netherlands ever take the time to pop up to the north to visit the quieter side of life. The best way for me to describe its layout, its culture and its people would be to compare Groningen to the north of England and Friesland to Scotland.

In the city of Groningen, we have a red light district with a variety of pretty ladies, and a selection of high quality coffee shops (the Dutch kind) in particular the Tavern Oasis, and an endless amount of bars, ranging from typical dutch pubs to the underground clubs and alternative bars. It’s also known to have the biggest student population within the whole of the Netherlands, with students accounting for over 25 per cent of the population. The city of Groningen holds a couple of festivals a year including Noorderzon, a performing arts festival at the end of August.

There’s so many ways to introduce yourself to a city like Groningen, but I think the best one is to get on your bike.

Alternative Groningen Tour shows you round all the weird and wonderful places of Groningen. Fiona (the founder and guide) takes you on a journey of discovery to see street art, squats, interesting communities, local history, cheap places to eat, cool venues and, best of all, shows you how the people of Groningen took matters into their own hands to improve the city.

This tour shows you how it’s possible to rethink your way of living where creativity, community, cooperation and freedom are more important than money. The tours are offered in both Dutch and English and can be tailored to your needs and interest.

I’ve been living in the Netherlands for almost four years now and coming into my final year of studying (FINALLY!). It wasn’t until entering my third year that I finally found a place to settle permanently, the Oude RKZ. This huge former Roman Catholic Hospital in the south of Groningen was built in 1925 and has more than 250 residents. Home to artists, families, musician, the elderly, couples, you name it; it’s been a community living space for over 39 years now.

Before it became an official place of residence it was squated in September 1979 with more than 100 people, making it the largest squat in the whole Netherlands. Two years later, in 1981, the municipality purchased the build protecting it from being demolished. This still had its problems until, in 1985, State Secretary Brokx declared the building legally inhabited and after consultation with the residents gave permission for a self-management experiment for a period of five years.

The once squatted hospital has since then, grown into a successful and autonomously managed residential building, with its own board, a maintenance committee and its own technical department.

I live in the basement of the hospital, which once was the bath house. It’s pretty cold and can be a little scary at times but it’s definitely homely. Thankfully right next to my room there is a hot tub that opens every last Sunday of the month. It’s the best way to relax after a 10 hour plus shift in a kitchen.

The ORKZ also offers a cinema, day cafe, bar/music venue, a organic shop and a swap shop. You almost never have to ever leave the grounds. If you join the Alternative Groningen Tour, The ORKZ is usually one of the stops.

The one and only food you need to know about in Groningen is the eierbal, a meatless scotch egg. I promise you, they’re addictive and the perfect way to finish a night out or cure your hangover from all the Dropshot (liquorice liqueur) and jenever (Dutch gin) from the night before. It’s’ a giant ball of ragout, with a golden breadcrumb layer on the outside, and a hard boiled egg sitting perfectly in the centre.

Of course you can be cheap and get one from the nationally famous Febo, but the only good part about that experience is taking food out of the wall. The best organic Eierbal can be found in Oosterpoort, at Friet Van Piet . And they even serve the Fierbal, that has the slightest kick to it (one thing the Dutch suck at is spicy food). Sorry to say but this only exists in Groningen and can’t be found anywhere else in the Netherlands. More reason to visit the north! If all else false in life, I will open my own Eierbal street food van, that’s how passionate I am about these beautiful balls of goodness.

Obviously, every city has its downsides and there’s no point in hiding them. If we do then we never get the chance to change them. Some of you may already know that Groningen is home to one of the largest natural gas fields in Europe. The mining has gone on for so long and so far that now the north of the provence is being destroyed by earthquakes. You would have thought that after the extreme negative effects on the environment that NAM might have got the sign that it’s probably better to stop mining gas. Yet gas is still being extracted while we speak, outraging the citizens of Groningen and highlighting major environmental problems all over the world. If you want to read more about what is happening visit the Code Rood website.

Here’s some extra little links should you give Groningen a visit! I’d highly recommend you do.

Bars to visit:
Kult, ORKZbar, Oost, Mr Mofongo

Restaurants:
Land Van Kokanje, De Kleine Heerlijkheid, Eetcafe Michel, Gustatio

Venues:
Vera, Paradigm, De Oosterpoort, Simplon, EM2, DOT, Zuhause

Galleries and museums:
Sign Galerie, Noorderlicht, NP3, Galerie Noord, Groningen Museum

This blog is brought to you by our wonderful hostel manager, Rhian.

We are lucky enough to meet many lovely people, from all over the world every day at the Art Hostel. It makes each day varied, interesting and means there’s never a dull moment!

It’s great to welcome all of these wonderful folk to Leeds and find out what they’ve come to us for, from general travel and exploration and to visiting a band they love or seeing a theatre show or art exhibition to dancing the night away at a famous club night.

Some people are here for shopping, cocktails or other glamorous pursuits and have never stayed in a hostel before in their lives, some are seasoned backpacker travellers from halfway around the world and some are students, new to the city, wanting to find permanent accommodation while they study here, or find a job in a new exciting location. The possibilities are endless…

A big part of our role is helping everyone find what they’re looking for. Whether they want our help, friendship and recommendations or just want a few tips and then leaving alone to explore their new environment. Our super enthusiastic team of staff and volunteers are always on hand to give practical support and advice.

Here are a few useful tips to help make your Art Hostel stay as perfect as possible.

Ask a local! (Or a volunteer…)

Can’t decide where to go out tonight? What to have for a cheap but delicious dinner? Or where to visit in your final few hours before you jump on your train home?

Hostel staff are fountains of knowledge as they’ve usually tried everything themselves and they’re always happy to share their favourite places with you. Don’t stick to boring chain pubs and restaurants when there’s so much local talent on offer (usually pretty cheap too!).
We also have maps, posters and flyers detailing fabulous local events and places to visit so please don’t struggle to find something that piques your interest.

Get to know the other guests.

The extra special thing about hosteling is the opportunity it gives you to mingle with the rest of the people staying in the same place as you. You can start a debate at the kitchen table over a glass of wine and find that you’re still laughing over the outcome at breakfast the next morning. It’s a melting pot of interesting characters and new friends. You may meet some of the most fascinating and experienced travellers in the world, or at least get to share a song played on the communal guitar.

Maybe consider a private room if you’re a light sleeper?

Dorm rooms are fun and friendly communal living but there’s always someone who snores a little and a few keen travellers up at the crack of dawn who want to be off exploring…

Hostels are still the cheapest way to see any city, so maybe splash out on a little more privacy if you know you’re likely to be a bit grumpy if you get woken up?

Communal living can be intense; make life easier on yourself and your fellow travellers by being considerate. If you know you like a long hot shower then maybe wait until later than first thing in the morning, so you’re not causing queues? And please always make an effort to clean up after yourself in the kitchen after dinner. A little washing up will go a long way with your new friends. And remember to be quiet when you’re getting back late from that big night out!

Plan ahead.

A little organisation can go a long way.

Spontaneous adventures are always the best ones but just bare in mind there are always a few little things to consider. Maybe book a night’s accommodation near to where your flight lands if you know you’ll be arriving late and you’re not sure what time local buses and trains run until. Not being able to find anywhere to relax when you’re a bit groggy from a long journey can be needlessly stressful.

If you’re not sure about the social scene in a city that you’re visiting, consider booking a Friday and Saturday night in advance, in case it’s really busy that weekend and you can’t extend your stay. You don’t want to end up having to cut your adventures short! Most hostels only need a couple of days notice for free cancellations if your plans change.

Also, please always book direct with your hostel! The commission paid to big online booking sites never makes it into the pockets of your favourite hardworking little hostel.

Enjoy yourself!

Once you decide to swap from staying in big boring hotels to the wonderful welcoming hostel life, you’ll never look back. There’s a whole world of amazing things to see and people to meet. When will your next adventure be?

What’s your top tip for the perfect hostel stay?

Since we opened our doors to the public in 2016, we’ve had the pleasure of hosting some incredible people, creating amazing memories and relationships. One way we have documented our journey as a hostel is through our guest books!

These are full of extracts from all the wonderful visitors who come through our doors and collectively build the story of our little hostel. Everybody is encouraged to write, draw or create anything they please in the pages. We want people to express their experiences in the hostel with their own creative freedom.

The guest books have given us the chance to understand how our Art Hostel touches people in the simplest ways, from giving people a renewed energy for travelling, creating the opportunity for new friendships and encouraging creativity.

Here, our lovely duty supervisor, Jess, takes a look at what some of our guests have had to say!

A school group from France

Our hostel often hosts larger groups, who might come to Leeds for a variety of reasons, such as work trips, school trips, sports events, birthday gatherings, conferences or arts festivals.

During last year, we had the pleasure of hosting a group of French school students, who filled our hostel with an enthusiastic, youthful energy and so much joy! They took their chance to fill up one of the pages of our guest book, one-by-one, with their lovely words. Here’s what a few of them said…

“You’re all amazing, we love you.”

“Thank you for this great time in Art Hostel.”

We thought they were pretty amazing too! We would love for them to visit us again one day.

Iguasi from Barcelona

We are blessed with amazing guests and volunteers, many of whom bring a very special light and atmosphere into our home. Iguasi from Barcelona was one of them…

“This is, probably, the best hostel I’ve been. It’s a pity just to spend one night in Leeds because of this hostel. The atmosphere is incredible, people and staff are so friendly. The decoration, furniture, the art concept, the facilities, clean toilets… everything is perfect. Hope to come back to Leeds and book in at the Art Hostel! Thanks for everything, you rock!”

We are so grateful for his amazing words, and the spirit he brought with him along his travels.

One of our main goals at the hostel, is to make our guests feel as comfortable in our home as they do in their own. We love being a home away from home for many of our travellers who get a little bit homesick on their journeys.

Bree from Australia

We were very fortunate to meet an amazing girl named Bree, who had travelled all the way from Australia and fit in perfectly with our little family at the hostel. We got to share some great memories with Bree, and were so glad to give her a place where she felt comfortable and at home during her time in Leeds. Before she continued her travels, she took some time to write in our guest book…

“Thank you to everyone at the Art Hostel for being so helpful and making my time enjoyable. Special thank you to Rhiannon, who saw that I was anxious and upset, for helping me find a doctor, helped me do my laundry and invited me out with her to the Pride festival, because if she didn’t, I would have been anxious and crying in my room. You all are amazing and made me feel welcome and at home when I felt like I was alone on the other side of the world. I will be recommending to any of my friends from Australia who are coming to Leeds.”

We hope Bree is turning new places into new found homes across her travels in Europe.

Sarah from Germany

Our volunteers are an integral part of how the hostel runs, and impact on the atmosphere and the experiences travellers have here. In two years, we have hosted volunteers from over 21 different countries across the globe. These volunteers, more than often, become family with each other and create a bond which they take with them along their travels, and even when they return home from the hostel.

One of our dearly missed volunteers, Sarah from Germany, is just one example of how close the volunteers become with each other during their stay at the hostel. Before her departure she wrote…

“Art Hostel – to all the beautiful people who made my stay here the best time I’ve ever had in my life. I don’t even know where to begin, because no words could ever express how I feel about all of you and about this place. Coming here was the best decision I ever made and I didn’t regret it for one second. Thank you for the night shifts (my all time favorites) and the company during them, thank you for evenings filled with loads of wine, food and good conversations, thank you for all the hugs I didn’t even know I needed, thank you for giving me the opportunity to meet so many people from all over the world, thank you for new friendships, thank you for being my family and for finally giving me a place that feels like home-something i’ve never felt before. I’m terrible at goodbyes, but please know that I’m leaving my heart here with you and I’ll be back very soon! You won’t get rid of me that easily. I love you all very much and I’ll see you soon! -Oh and Rhian, please don’t be sad when reading this, you are one of the most badass women I know!”

Sarah, we miss you so much too! And we agree, Rhian, our general manager, is totally badass!

Shaun and Rachel from New Zealand

Our hostel has hosted many artists from all over the globe, in various ways. We have had artists commissioned to design our amazing rooms, student artists and emerging artists partake in exhibitions in our project space, and even hosted worldwide artists while they have interacted with the arts community in Leeds.

Our guest books often gets blessed with the talents of our guests, creating elaborate and beautiful art pieces on the pages. One of our favourite art pieces to date was created by a lovely couple from New Zealand, Shaun and Rachel. Here is a snapshot of the lovely illustration they gifted to us…

Through all the ways we have interacted with guests, volunteers and artists over the last two and a half years, we are so glad that we have had a chance to archive these experiences in our guest books and can look back on all the fun we’ve had.

We can’t wait to host many more wonderful people and experiences in the future!

Looking forward to a three-day weekend? We are! We’re hoping the sun will grace us with its presence again and shine down on all of the amazing things happening in Leeds. Still not got your bank holiday weekend sorted? Don’t worry! We have the lowdown.

Saturday 25th August

Toy Art, Riley Smith Theatre, 10am – 4pm
After a respectable lie-in, we’d recommend heading across to Riley Smith Theatre at Leeds University Union to check out Toy Art. An exhibition brought to you by some of the leading toy artists in the UK, you’ll be able to experience their work and chat to some of them in person.

Image: Toy Art UK

Eat North, North Brewing Co, 12pm onwards
Fancy some beer and fantastic street food? There’s no better to place to find it than Eat North at North Brewing Co’s brewery tap. With a selection of coffee, sweet treats and street food goodness, you’re bound to find something which tickles your fancy.

Mango Lassi launch, Northern Monk Refectory, 11.45am onwards
From one brewery to another, Northern Monk is hosting a special celebration for its much-loved Mango Lassi IPA which is returning to its taps as part of Leeds Beer Week. There’ll be street food and fun on offer too.

Image: Northern Monk Brewery

Pride and Prejudice at Roundhay Park, 2pm and 7pm
It is the truth universally acknowledged that bank holidays are the absolute best. Make sure yours continues to be top notch with a trip to Roundhay Park for an open air performance of Pride and Prejudice. Swoon as Elizabeth and Darcy fall in love and feel the warm glow of knowing that you still have two more lie-ins to come.

Sunday 26th August

Leeds Feast, Water Lane Boathouse, 11am onwards
Not had enough street food yet? We hear you! Head down to Water Lane Boathouse for a feast and a half at the aptly named, Leeds Feast! Enjoy the beer garden in the sun (fingers crossed) with a pint or two, food from our friends at Ox Club and many others and music from Hyde Park Brass and a selection of DJs. This event is on 27th too!

Left Bank Opera Festival, Left Bank Leeds, 2.30 to 3.30pm
Catch the last day of the Left Bank Opera Festival with a performance of Calcutta by Ensemble Tempus Fugit. There will be other fun activities throughout the day so head up from 1pm.

Black Music Festival, Potternewton Park
Formerly known as Leeds Reggae Festival, the Black Music Festival is the biggest of its kind in Europe. Get in the mood for carnival with some of the best reggae, hip hop and r ‘n’ b performances from across the globe! There’ll be food and arts and crafts too!

Image: Black Music Festival (Photography: Guy Farrar)

Monday 27th August

Leeds West Indian Carnival, Chapeltown
Right, this one is our favourite and we strongly recommend that you make it the cornerstone of your bank holiday weekend. Whether you’re a resident or a visitor, see the very best of Leeds with this all out party! Expect costumes, music and an awesome atmosphere. Keep an eye on social media for announcements about timings.

Chapel Allerton Arts Festival Week, Chapel Allerton
Just up the road from the carnival, you’ll find the beginnings of the Chapel Allerton Arts Festival. A week of celebration before the main event (31st – 2nd), head to Seven for a Short Film Festival from 7.30pm or enjoy an Art Hunt with the kids around Gledhow Valley Woods during the day.

Image: Chapel Allerton Arts Festival

Leeds Piano Trail, Leeds city centre, all day
Completed the Art Hunt at Gledhow Valley Woods (see above) and still fancy hunting some more…? Well, LeedsBID is supporting the 2018 Leeds Piano Competition and has hidden 12 pianos around the city to celebrate. You can pick up a trail map from info points across the city or just wander round and see how many you can find. Here’s a starter for 10, there’s one at The Tetley if you fancy some food to kickstart your hunt and there’s also one hiding at Corn Exchange, which is always worth a visit!

There you have it. Our bank holiday round up is bound to keep you busy. Have we missed anything? How do you plan to spend yours?

You might have seen one or two envelopes marked ‘READ ME’ turning up in the Art Hostel and other East Street Arts locations. It’s part of a guerrilla publishing project called #foundfiction. Here we reveal how #foundfiction is connecting writers and readers across the world through anonymous short stories.

‘Smile, it might never happen.’
‘Live every day like it’s your last.’
‘Be true to yourself.’

Everyone has words to live by – particular phrases that define who we are and guide how we handle any curveballs life throws at us.

For #foundfiction it’s ‘the best stories you find are the ones that find you’. This is the idea that literature is about a reader taking the outstretched hand of a writer they’ll probably never meet, making a powerful bond through a story they didn’t know they were looking for.

The concept behind #foundfiction is very simple. Writers send in their stories, which are printed out, folded up, put in envelopes marked ‘READ ME’, and left in public spaces for someone to find. To date, there have been over 4,000 envelopes distributed across the world – throughout the UK and Europe, and as far as the US, Canada, Australia, Africa and Japan.

#foundfiction has also printed stories in Polish and French – and it has plans to broaden the languages it publishes even further by working with translators and welcoming short story writers worldwide.

Where are the stories left? Anywhere they’re likely to be found and appreciated. Bookshops, cafés and train stations are where readers usually stumble upon these mysterious envelopes – but they’ve also turned up in the crevices of trees, at cash points and in mannequin hands in fashion stores. #foundfiction defines street literature.

How is #foundfiction growing?

After initially starting out as a means by which one shy writer could get his work read by others anonymously, #foundfiction now publishes work by over 50 writers.

Steve Clarkson, the founder of #foundfiction, said: “The project began when I was chatting to a friend who was a writer and really wanted his work to be read. However, he was shy so he didn’t want anyone to know it was him responsible for the words.

“The primary purpose of #foundfiction is to connect writers and readers across the world – and we’d love to think we brighten someone’s day in the process. If we’re going to make the world a more positive place, it will be one envelope at a time.”

In February 2018 #foundfiction received a grant from Leeds Inspired, which funds many arts projects, venues and organisations across the city. The funds went towards staging a launch night at the Leeds Library – and the project has gone from strength to strength ever since.

It’s explored a variety of avenues over the past six months, including:

• Expanding into new languages – printing stories in French as well as Polish, and growing into communities in those respective countries.
• Working with youngsters – to inspire kids to read more and write better through writing workshops and competitions.
• Helping authors publicise their work – delivering creative publicity strategies for authors and small publishers by scattering extracts of new work in the run-up to book launches.
• Co-writing short stories with the public – installing the #foundfiction writing desk at literary festivals and across cities nationwide, encouraging members of the public to co-create short stories.

Looking ahead – how can travellers get involved?

#foundfiction is always keen to hear from any creative writers – emerging or established. They can email fictionfound@gmail.com with stories up to 500 words, which will be printed and distributed for free. Travellers who wants to distribute short stories while they’re globetrotting can get involved by sending a mailing address – they’ll receive a bundle of stories in return. You can also join the community on social media using the #foundfiction hashtag.

Steve said: “It’s always been our goal to grow #foundfiction. Ultimately, if every major city across the world had the scale of a following we have in Leeds, we’d be making a considerable impact on the way people publish and consume short fiction.

“#foundfiction belongs to our community. Keep writing, keep sharing and keep in touch.”

Twitter: @fictionfound
Facebook: foundfiction
Instagram: found_fiction

Happy Leeds Beer Week everyone! From stouts to blondes, we have some of the best beers around in our city’s fine establishments. Whether you nip into one of our breweries or sup your ale in a hidden alleyway pub, you’re bound to find something that wets your whistle. Here’s a run down of our favourite taverns…which can all be found by following our Art Hostel map. How very convenient?!

North Bar
Based on New Briggate, North Bar is part of the North Brewing Company family of bars which can be found across the city and in its wonderful suburbs, including Further North (Chapel Allerton), Alfred (Meanwood) and The Cross Keys (city centre).

Possibly the very first craft bar in Britain (we don’t know that for sure!), North has a fantastically diverse range of beers on tap and in its fridges. It’s won an award or two in its time and is top notch for music and art with a great atmosphere. The staff are helpful and will point you in the right direction if you’re a novice! This bar is an all round good egg – cheers to you North Bar!

Tapped
Just landed in Leeds? Not sure where to head to from the station or the 757 bus stop? We’d recommend you start your trip with a visit to Tapped which is on Boar Lane, just down from the train station. It’s an American-style brew spot with more than 25 draft beers on tap. There’s absolutely something for everyone and you can get a darn good pizza too. Bottoms up!

The Midnight Bell
Leeds Brewery’s flagship pub, The Midnight Bell is situated within one of the oldest buildings in the city. You’ll find it down on Water Lane in Holbeck (close to the Water Taxi stop!) and it’s a great spot to take in some “traditional Leeds” with amazing oak beams and ancient brickwork. It may well be an oldie but it’s certainly a goody with a great variety of beer ready for you to sample. Order a pint or two before heading off the Northern Monk which is just down the road. Chin-chin!

Water Lane Boathouse
Another Water Lane beauty is the recent addition (more recent than The Midnight Bell anyway)… Water Lane Boathouse. It has a fantastic outdoor space next to the canal and claims to have a massive selection of…wait for it…more than 70(!!) beers. From pale ale to fruit beer, your head may be spinning before you have your first sip. You can enjoy great food options and some very good deals too. We salute you Water Lane Boathouse.

Whitelock’s
Remember we mentioned hidden alleyway pubs? Well, here’s where we’ll elaborate. One word… Whitelock’s. It was built in 1751 (Hear that, The Midnight Bell?) and is THE oldest public house in Leeds. Much of the real ale and craft beer on offer comes from Yorkshire breweries and there’s a nice outdoor space which you can settle yourself into while you sup your pints! If you’re with a non-beer drinker (**spits out pint in disgust**), fear not, they can nip next door to The Turk’s Head to get themselves a terrific gin and tonic and join you outside. Whitelock’s, we doff our hats to your age and experience, old boy!

Headrow House
A very good friend of Water Lane Boathouse, Headrow House is situated on (you guessed it!) the Headrow. Blink and you’ll miss it, the entrance is a little hidden but there’s usually a bouncer outside giving it away. It’s all about the Beer Hall with 60 beers from around the world! The Pilsner Urquell is the star of the show…an unpasteurised, unfiltered delight…HH claims that its “the best Pilsner you’ve ever tasted”. We dare you to find out if they’re right. Other points to note is the fantastic Ox Club, its brunch is a dream, and the wonderful terrace. Headrow House, we really don’t deserve you!

The Angel Inn
Boasting one of Leeds’ cheapest pints, The Angel Inn is another of the city’s hidden alleyway bars. Just off Briggate, you’ll find The Angel nestled in a fabulous spot. Its old school all the way beer is grand. We just love it!

Foley’s Tap House
Another Headrow hotspot is Foley’s Tap House, located in the very lovely, and listed, Pearl Chambers. It’s the only York Brewery outside of York and you can try interesting beers from around the world including those from York Brewery itself. There’s a few ciders to choose from should you fancy too.

Outlaws Yacht Club
One of our neighbours (kinda), Outlaws Yacht Club is just around the corner and is a feast for the soul. Good music..check. Board games…check. Excellent beer…check! You can’t go wrong. It even has its own pale ale brewed by Bad Co Brewery. We couldn’t recommend it more highly.

The Palace
We know, we know! The Palace makes it into nearly all of our round ups. Well, we can’t help it…perhaps it needs to stop being so great! A traditional pub, just down the road from us, The Palace is the perfect spot for a good beer and a natter. It’s the place to be for sport viewing too. Good on you, The Palace.

Right, that’s it! You’re free to head out and enjoy a pint or two but please, please, please drink responsibly. We wouldn’t recommend using our guide as a pub crawl! And remember to check out the Leeds Beer Week website to find out all you need to know: www.leedsbeerweek.co.uk

What’s your favourite drinking spot in Leeds? Tell us what we’ve missed in the comments below.

Australia’s monumental ‘yes’ vote for same sex marriage came as my plane touched down at Melbourne Airport and, as the country’s renowned cultural capital, the city seemed to shout its acceptance in a flurry of rainbow flags and creative street art.

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Moments into my Melbourne trip I was told to promise, hand on heart, that “I will never step foot in Starbucks whilst in the city”. I soon understood why, as I discovered laneways bursting with bright artwork and alternative coffee spots and elderly bohemian-style street performers. Just a few steps later I stumbled upon creative subway exhibitions, with yet more stalls to serve my caffeine fix. The city instantly appeared to embody the independent, artistic narrative it is famed for.

Melbourne’s movement towards cultural growth is apparent everywhere you look – from the pop up installations in the Botanical Gardens to the city’s ever growing collection of public art. Possibly one of its most famed features is that of the Lanes. The side streets of the inner city have been transformed into quirky warrens, dotted with independent eateries, coffee shops and vintage stores. Once nothing more than slums during the gold rush of the Marvelous Melbourne era, these urban alleys now hold great cultural significance as home to some of the finest arts and brunch spots in the city.

Anyone who has spent any time in Melbourne will have experienced its street art culture. The cities laneways have become a contemporary symbol for the city where, since the 1990s, there has been a growing acceptance for graffiti as a form of art. Alleyways within the city centre have become iconic spaces for the legal creation of street art. The initiative was borne from the desire to promote creativity in unused or dirty spaces of the city – creating vibrancy where there was formerly darkness. One piece in particular uses the environment as a muse, creating an urban jungle that brings bursts of greens and blues to the grey of the city’s alleyways. Artists, such as Mike Makatron, have become famous for their urban creations here in Melbourne leading to streams of camera-clad tourists descending upon the iconic Hosier Lane and ACDC to get that perfect Instagram shot.

The laneways initiative has brought a rich form of organic culture and heritage to Melbourne. I spent much of my time away from the main high streets, hopping from lane to lane to lap up their unique feel and experience. Rather than being a part of town to be avoided, the lanes have taken centre stage – some strung with ornate lighting and bunting, many adorned with vibrant art, whilst others are home to a bustling coffee culture and overflowing boutique cafes.

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This isn’t to say that Melbourne has generated a new credibility for graffiti as a form of art. In fact, the work of internationally renowned street artist Banksy has been vandalised and destroyed on 3 occasions within the city. This led to the response that, although it was a shame, it was hardly the Mona Lisa… So, whilst there is still a very real impression among many that graffiti isn’t valued artwork, the laneways initiative evidences a real movement towards organic and niche cultural city growth.

It wasn’t just the marriage vote I’d arrived to; it was also Melbourne’s annual music week – where 250 artists perform at 105 live events in 40 venues across the city. This led to days of basking in the novelty of sunshine in November, whilst uncovering new and emerging artists from the southern hemisphere. The cultural capital is also host to an annual comedy festival – along with the iconic fringe festival, which sees 400 shows held in venues across the city. Whilst I was a little too late to go myself, as a self-proclaimed culture chaser, I’d heard of its success in celebrating the 2017 motto of “Everything is Art” – featuring exhibitions such as Pivot, a live art display by Madeleine Flynn and Tim Humphrey. This piece was comprised of a talking seesaw which aimed to overcome the echo chamber of reality by prompting conversation in an interactive way – connecting people to one another, to their city and to art. In many cases, without people even realising that it was art they were engaging with.

For me, the beauty of Melbourne was the inclusive nature of its creative culture. Art was not just something I saw on a visit to the National Gallery of Victoria. Whether I was taking a shortcut down an artistic alleyway or stopping for a coffee, I was almost always engaging with the open and independently creative nature of the city. The urban edge of Melbourne is paired with its acceptance for art of all forms – and I can safely say that just a week spent soaking up this creative energy definitely wasn’t long enough…

“Living in Singapore as a creative is like living in a famine…” (Artist, Zi Xi)

A day in the city wouldn’t give you this impression. Bright lights of the iconic skyline mirrored on the waters of the lavish Marina Bay – Singapore is a city nation that screams modernity, acceptance, and innovation. Or it is? It is only when you dig a little deeper, looking beyond the clean and orderly city centre streets and asking the question, but why?

Public art is banned. The only art you see decorating the urban hub is that which has passed rigorous checks, art that supports an important city narrative. The kind of message that says, ‘We are Singapore, we are a successful, accepting and multi-cultural nation state’. Commissioned murals take you on a creative journey through the city’s history, whilst monuments depict the industrial progression of years gone by and symbolic sculptures take the shape of harmonious figures holding hands. There is an element of freedom in creating, an ability to act on impulsive innovative desire, that isn’t welcomed here – a feeling, at least, that it doesn’t meet with the strict contemporary city brand.

As an artist living in Singapore, you begin to feel like you are moving through a cookie cutter system – fulfilling what is expected and asked of you. Safe. Clean. Art. Just speaking with local artist, Zi Xi, I could feel her appetite for more. Having lived and studied in London, Zi Xi has experienced the creative chaos of the British urban jungle, along with its freedom in the exploration and expression of your unique imagination. The stark comparison between these two cities is clear to see. The city streets here are spotless, orderly and quiet. Everything has its place and its purpose. Just thinking of London brings back memories of crowded streets, the hum of traffic, the crash and laughter of street performers. We see this as an environment of commotion, disarray and havoc. Yet to an artist it is one of liberation – where you are given the freedom to speak, create and act on desire. Fundamentally, laws and restrictions mean that the public art you are shown in Singapore’s city centre are very intentional.

Walking through the streets of Singapore, I began to feel as though I was part of a film set, in some alternate Truman Show reality. This notion wasn’t new to any of the residents I spoke with, who all laughed in agreement. Zi Xi went on to speak of her interest in what’s happening beyond the Singapore bubble. It was important for her to address controversial themes that were otherwise avoided in Singapore’s social circuits and discuss them in the only forum she could – her artwork. A recent example of this was the ‘Plastic Ocean’ installation, where she transformed gallery space into an ocean of plastic in an effort to demonstrate the very real effects of pollution. Zi Xi has been asked to undertake an extension of this project at Singapore Zoo, highlighting the growing appetite for this exploratory form of artwork in the city.

The clean city centre poses a stark contrast to the vibrancy of its ghettos. Both China Town and Little India have their own personality, presented through an explosion of colour and noise. It felt as though you were stepping from Singapore’s safe and orderly streets into another world as you ventured into each neighbourhood. I was taken in by the informality of China Town. I became one in a sea of people moving with the tides beneath the traditionally ornate paper lanterns that fluttered above our heads – it was refreshing to hear the shouts from street vendors as we passed, to see some element of disorder in the otherwise perfect display that was Singapore.

I was staying in Little India, which has been dubbed the up and coming creative ghetto. It was refreshing to see passionate stories of the community’s rich cultural history told in the form of striking street art. The neighbourhood is home to ARTWALK, an annual public arts festival (run by LASALLE College of Arts and Singapore Tourism Board, supported by Little India’s Shopkeepers’ and Heritage Association). 2017 marked its third year, where interactive art installations, immersive performances and expressive storytelling explored the theme of ‘Your Path to Remember’. These passionate displays were delivered by local artists, who effectively brought the heritage of the Little India district to life. The ghettoes showcase an alternative display of art, shedding light on another side to Singapore and the many faces of its multicultural community.

Expression of creative passion must be supported and approved before it can be displayed in the city of Singapore. This fact was reinforced with a visit to The Substation, which was the first independent arts centre in the city. Although its identity has changed a little, the venue continues to explore experimental and contemporary art. The exhibition currently on display is entitled ‘Discipline the City’, which encourages us to consider the expense and exclusivity of the city – where everyone knows where they need to be and how they must behave. It comes in response to questions of control, of access and politics of space. I found it interesting that these themes should be chosen in such a restricted and authority-led urban environment – yet the very fact that this exhibition is running gave me a sense of faith in the future of genuine and creative displays of artistic passion in Singapore.

‘Discipline the City’ takes its audience on a journey through an anti-building – presenting a fusion of misaligned spaces, walls that don’t quite connect and punk-themed riot scenes. It brings us to question: who does the city belong to? Who has rights over the city? These are poignant themes in any urban hub but, for me, they were particularly important questions to consider here in Singapore – an environment where artist, Zi Xi, stated she felt as though she were on cookie-cutter conveyor belt. She, along with everyone else in the city, has a role to fulfil, expectations to meet, along with rules and regulations to abide by. Perhaps this exhibition – along with the freedom of expression Zi Xi uses in her artistic world – is helping to open up creative conversation in Singapore.

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There are many layers to the ‘Singapore experience’. It isn’t easy to get under the skin of the city and see beyond the shiny facade of the iconic skyline. But if you are looking for an element of freedom in expression, of organic artistic flare and passion, it can be found. Step beyond Marina Bay Sands and Gardens by the Bay – instead, choose to get lost in the cultural warrens of the cities ethnic ghettos, explore hidden independent arts spaces and find yourself in amongst crowds of like-minded individuals at informal festivals held in celebration of local creativity.

Words and images by Emily Baldwin.